Some history of Blue Balls and Cal Gal, from an interview
with Fred Nakovic. Fred is one of the original gang of Hueco First (recorded)
Ascensionists and is responsible for many of Hueco's classic trad and "sport"
routes, such as Huecool on the West Mountain.
" Back in the summer of '82, Todd (Skinner) was
working in Ruidoso (New
Mexico, about 150 miles north of Hueco) slingin' concrete. He
was just starting out climbing; his friend Paul Piana climbed more, and
told him about Hueco. I remember you (Steve Crye) were
there the first day Todd came out and we met him on the Frontside near
Mushroom boulder. Back then, we (the
locals) were
stronger climbers, and we had our problems wired, 'cause it was our turf
and we were familiar with it. That day, all of the locals were happy
to show him around, we took him on a tour of the front side, kinda testing
him, took him up Scary Boulder (this was before
the jug haul was named 'Melon Patch'), soloed
Cake Walk with him and stuff. We were showing off 'cause he was not yet
a 5.12 climber, but he was strong 5.11 climber and we got along fine
with him. He started coming down from Ruidoso whenever he could, I did
quite a bit with him.
One day he and I put a toprope on Blue Balls; no one had climbed
it yet. We couldn't finish it - I remember I reached the high point that
day, somewhere around the big hueco about half way up. In the first group
of big huecos, we found two ratty shredded blue baseballs that someone
had chucked into the hueco. We
tried it a few times more that year but abandoned it without topping out.
The next season (spring of '83), Todd showed
up with Sherman (back
then they were friends) and some other guy; I think it was Sherman's
first trip to Hueco. Todd was climbing stronger and he and Sherman did
a lot of routes that season. I remember they had gone to some thrift
store and bought a bunch of cheap, gaudy polyester clothes. This stuff
was bright, flared pants, really wild looking stuff, like a bunch of
Haight-Ashbury hippie outfits, really garish. Mod-Squad stuff. I didn't
join them that day, being my usually introverted self, so I wasn't with
them when they finished Blue Balls.
Cal-Gal was first climbed by this tall, skinny chick from California -
her name was Melissa or Marisella or something. An American chick. She
could hang on those tiny crimpers 'cause she was so light and wiry. " Fred
Nakovic June 6, 2006