The Central Texas Climbing Committee has been working for over a decade to improve the quality and safety of your rock climbing experience at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Among many significant duties, the CTCC is responsible as a volunteer organization to evaluate and recommend new route applications to TPWD, retro-bolt some excessively dangerous existing routes, and replace existing bad equipment judged to be inferior or degraded by the elements.

The following summary is provided as a courtesy to rock climbers at Enchanted Rock and is intended to illustrate the past activities and countless volunteer hours invested in this park by the CTCC. The CTCC is supported (all equipment) by money provided by the major climbing clubs in Texas. Please support your local climbing club as it goes directly into the equipment cost for retro-bolting and replacement bolting. The cost of fixed protection placed on new routes is assumed by the first ascentionist.

Austin- Central Texas Mountaineers
Dallas- Texas Mountaineers
Houston - Texas Mountain Raiders
San Antonio- Alamo City Climbing Club

NEW ROUTES
(applications for fixed protection that were approved by CTCC/TPWD)

Vogue (5.11) - Scott Harris
Climb the arête on the northeast corner of the boulder (crowded House Boulder) to the west of the Cave-In area (3 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Space Balls (5.9+) - Mieko Akutsu
Climb the north face of the boulder forming the roof of the Cave-In area (2 bolts, 2 top anchors). Alternate finish up a final face to the top of Rappeller Rock.

Digital Overload (5.9+) - Tony Faucett
Climb a bolted face in the jumble of boulders above "In the Beginning There Were Ducks" (5 bolts).

Lawyers, Guns and Money (5.11) - Mieko Akutsu
Climb the north facing wall of the largest (tallest) boulder forming the Cave-In area (4 bolts). Access from the top of the short free-standing boulder. Move up and left following the line of bolts, crux at second bolt.

Easy Money - Scott Harris
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

Space Wall - Steve Languell
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

Cactus Makes Perfect - Scott Harris
Approved with amendment. Not completed, approval expired.

Corkscrew - Mieko Akutsu
Approved with amendment. Not completed, approval expired.

Left and Right Icon - Sean Kitzmiller
Approved with amendment. Not completed, approval expired.

Turkey Tail - Scott Harris
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

Hartford (5.8) - James Crump
Climb the bolted face on the Backside to the left of "Dome Driver". First pitch goes straight up to the left of the tree and mantles over the overhanging bulge, continuing up to Beer Can Alley (4 bolts). Belay at anchors in
Beer Can Alley (2 RAP anchors). Second pitch continues straight up the face to the right of the "Boston" crack and continues on the upper shield (6 bolts). Belay at the top of the upper shield (2 RAP anchors).

Newark (5.9) - James Crump
Climb the thin face straight up from the first belay ledge of "Boston" on the Backside and continue up the upper shield (3 bolts). Must climb "Boston", "Mark of the Beast", or "Dome Driver" to reach the starting ledge.

Mark of the Beast (5.8) - James Crump
Climb the first pitch of "Christine's Variation" in the Devil's Slide Area of the Backside to a belay in a dish to the right of the Fatman Flake on "Harder Than It Looks" (7 bolts, 2 RAP anchors). The second pitch goes over the bulge and up to a belay at the right side of the Broadway Ledge (3 bolts, 2 RAP anchors). The third and final pitch goes off the right side of the Broadway Ledge and curves up and right on the upper shield (3 bolts, 2 RAP anchors).

Conspiracy a Go-Go (5.10b) - Robert Price
Climb the bolted face to the right of "Little Feat" on Buzzard's Roost (3 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Walk In The High Country (5.8) **(need 200 ft. rope) - James Crump
First pitch climbs the arête formed by the right facing dihedral to the left of "Close to the Edge" to a belay stance (4 bolts, 2 RAP anchors). Continue the second pitch traversing up and to the right across the upper portion above the overlap of "Close to the Edge" to a belay (6 bolts, 2 belay anchors). The third pitch traverses easy ground to the right and gains the Broadway Ledge, using the belay anchors for "Mark of the Beast" (no bolts). The fourth pitch traverses the lower portion of the upper shield along a prominent dike that angles up and to the right crossing the entire upper shield. The fourth pitch is a long stretch uses existing bolts on "Newark" and "Hartford" for protection with an additional 3 bolts added (3 bolts, 2 belay anchors). The fifth pitch angles up and right through a dish and bulge in the upper shield ("the wave") and ends in the low angle portion of the upper shield (2 bolts).

Pummel Jenga (5.11b) - Mike Lewis
Climb the direct start to the upper portion of "God's Elastic Acre" on the Backside. Start the climb to the left of
"Stranger Than Friction" pulling an overlap and continuing up to reach the 4th bolt on "God's Elastic Acre" (4 bolts). Finish the climb to the belay for "God's Elastic Acre".

Mexican Radio (5.12a/b) - Mike Lewis, James Crump
Climb the initial portion of "Texas Radio" on the Backside to the second bolt (RAP hanger). Instead of traversing to the right as for "Texas Radio", continue straight up the thin bolted face to the belay for "Texas Radio" (2 bolts- Texas Radio, 4 bolts- Mexican Radio, 2 RAP anchors).

Unnamed Route on Buzzard Roost - James Harrison
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

Geriatric Ho-down - Colby Sharp
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

The Wave - Christian Leeby, Josh Elmore
Approved with amendment. Not completed, approval expired.

Bangore - James Crump
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

La Realidad (5.12b/c) - James Harrison
Climb the bolted face on the left side of the boulder starting to the left of "PG-13" at Buzzards Roost (4 bolts).

Euskadi (5.13b) - James Harrison
Climb the bolted face on the left side of the north face of the South American Boulder on Freshman Mountain (4 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Orangasm (5.13) - Jeff Jackson
Climb the overhanging rounded arête immediately to the left of "Orange Peel" on the Backside (4 removable bolt holes).

Heinous Anus (5.13) - Jeff Jackson
Climb the overhanging crack formed by the juncture of the roof boulder and the largest boulder in the Cave-In area. The route is belayed from the same anchors as "Cave-In". (4 bolts, 2 top anchors)

Anti-Matterhorn - Mike Lewis
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

Baby Boom - David Cain
Approved as submitted. Not completed, approval expired.

RETRO-BOLTED ROUTES
(existing climbs that received additional bolts)

Mercy Street (5.10a) - James Crump
First soloed by James Crump. Climb the face on the Backside to the right of the start for "Chunky Tuna". Place first protection under the overlap and continue up the face to bolts (3 bolts, 2 RAP anchors).

Face Right of Pro Sweat (5.9) - Keith Guillory
Climb the face line to the right of Pro Sweat in the News Wall area of the Backside (2 bolts).

Knuckleduster (5.9) - Keith Guillory
Formerly Increasingly Vague climbed by Jim Blanford. Climb the Backside face starting to the left of "Easier Than It Looks" (4 bolts, 2 RAP anchors).

Piranha (5.11) - Mike Lewis
One bolt added to the upper face portion of the climb above the crack. Loop Boulders

Dome Driver (5.7) - James Crump
One bolt added between Beer Can Alley and the Boston belay ledge on the Backside.

God's Elastic Acre (5.11d) - James Crump
One bolt added (2nd) at the crux move.

West Face, Amazon Boulder (5.10) - Mike Lewis
Originally climbed by Mike Head. Climb the direct line up the West Face of the boulder (3 bolts, 2 RAP anchors).

Real Gravy (5.11c)
Originally climbed by Chris Rowens. 3 bolts added to the climb, 6 total.

Robo Prok Meets Godzilla (5.8) - James Crump
Route now has 3 bolts and 2 top anchors.

Deep Prok (5.8) - James Crump
Route now has 6 bolts and 2 top anchors.

Turkey Hooks (5.8) - James Crump
Climbs the prominent dihedral on Turkey Peak (4 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Butter Fingers (5.9) - Mike Lewis
Originally climbed by James Crump. Climbs the face to the right of "Turkey Hooks" on Turkey Peak (3 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Clockwerk Orange (5.11+) - James Crump
One bolt added (3rd) in the upper crux section of this route in the Orange Peel area. Top anchors added. (3 bolts, 2 top anchors).

Mystery and Imagination (5.8) - James Crump, Mike Lewis
One bolt added between the existing 2 bolts. New top anchors, shared with Clockwerk Orange (3 bolts, 2 top anchors).

NEW TOP ANCHORS ADDED
(new top anchors added for tree conservation, safety, etc.)

Lunch Rock
Frog Boulder
Bens Dilema
Beginners Bitch
Bastards Moan
Jack Knife
Smorgasbord
Grass Crack
Texas Flakes
Sweat
No Sweat/Walter Funkite
News Wall
Edge of Night
Fly on a Windshield
Stranger than Friction
Texas Radio
Gravitron
La Dolce Vita
MD 20/20
Boston
Harder than it Looks
Eat
Solo Boulder Rappel (Pit and the Pendulum)
Barracuda
The Far Side
Road to Nowhere
Mighty Dog
Windy Gully
Clockwerk Orange/Mystery and Imagination
Vogue
San Antonio Boulder (Lester the Molester)
The Flame
The Wick

REPLACEMENT BOLTS
(bolts on existing routes that were replaced)

French Route (1st, 2nd)
Terminal Orogeny (1st)
Stranger than Friction (2nd,belay)
God's Elastic Acre (2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th)
Sixth Happiness (3rd)
Texas Radio (2nd, 3rd, 4th)
Bold Talk for a One Eyed Fat Man (belay/RAP anchors)
La Dolce Vita (4th)
Ripple (all bolts, belay)
TJ Swan (belay, Ripple RAP anchors)
Dome Driver (1st, 3rd)
Boston (all bolts, 2 belays)
Harder Than It Looks (2nd, 4th)
Velvet Elvis (all bolts)
Megabyte (all bolts)
Tonka Toys From Hell (all bolts)
Orient Express (all bolts, top RAP anchors)
Altered States (all bolts)
Space Balls (all bolts, top RAP anchors)
Vogue (all bolts)
Cave-In (all bolts)
The Far Side (all bolts)
Barracuda (all bolts)
Road To Nowhere (all bolts)
Flathead Boulder (top anchors)
San Antonio Boulder (Lester the Molester, 1 bolt)
Clockwerk Orange (1st, 2nd)
Orange Peel (top RAP anchors)
Missing Link (1 bolt)
Conspiracy a Go-Go (1st, 2nd)
PG-13 (1st, 2nd, 4th, top RAP anchors)
The Flame (all bolts)
Top Gun (all bolts)
Frog Legs (1 bolt)
Amazon Boulder (directional top anchor, N. Face)
Space Lichen (all bolts and top anchors)
The Wick (1st bolt, top RAP anchors)
Winter of Discontent (2 bolts)
Mighty Dog (all bolts)
Standing Wave (1 bolt)
Head Hunter (all bolts)
Shuttle Rocks (2 top anchors)
Crystal Vision (1 bolt)
Christine's Classroom (1 bolt)

 

 

Information compiled by Mike Lewis from portions of CTCC records. This information may or may not be complete and we do not guarantee the accuracy of this information. Information is provided as a courtesy to users of Enchanted Rock.

NOTE: Climbing is a dangerous sport, please consider your safety carefully before engaging in this activity and do not rely solely upon this information to ensure your personal safety. Each climber must be responsible for his/her own actions. All climbers should independently verify the presence of fixed anchors on climbs that he/she are not thoroughly familiar with. If any information in this document is found to be in error, please contact the CTCC, Mike Lewis (210) 695-3046 to report the correction.